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Route Peru

 

For details of route, see below

 

17 June 2007 Panama City - Lima (by airplane)

18 - 25 June 2007 Lima

26 June 2007 Lima - Pisco - Parracas (by bus)

27 June 2007 Parracas - Ica - Huacachina (by bus)

28 June 2007 Huacachina - Ica - Nasca (by bus)

29 June 2007 Nasca

30 June 2007 Nasca - Lima (by bus)

1 July 2007 Lima - Trujillo (by nightbus)

2 - 7 July 2007 Trujillo + 6 July 2007 Trujillo – Chan Chan – Huanchaco – Trujillo 35.6 km

8 July 2007 Trujillo - Lima (by nightbus)

9 July 2007 Lima

10 July 2007 Lima - Trujillo (by nightbus)

11 July 2007 Trujillo

12 July 2007 Trujillo (20m) - Chao (20m) 67.4 km (449 meters climbed)

13 July 2007 Chao - Chuquicara (612m) 74.2 km (806 meters climbed)

14 July 2007 Chuquicara - Yuramarca (1494m) 56.6 km (945 meters climbed)

15 July 2007 Yuramarca - Caraz (2270m) 52.7 km (1096 meters climbed)

16 July 2007 Caraz

17 July 2007 Caraz - Huaraz (3091m) 70.0 km + 6.2 km in Huaraz (1104 meters climbed)

18 - 19 July 2007 Huaraz

20 July 2007 Huaraz - Catac (3600m) 37.9 km (566 meters climbed)

21 July 2007 Catac - Conococha (4113m) 50 km + 14.5 km up the Pasto Ruri and back (850 meters climbed)

22 July 2007 Conococha - Pachapaqui (4007m) 40.1 km (600 meters climbed)

23 July 2007 Pachapaqui - Huallanca (3536m) 49.9 km (689 meters climbed)

24 July 2007 Huallanca

25 July 2007 Huallanca - Pachas (3620m) 39 km (383 meters climbed)

26 July 2007 Pachas - Chavinillo (3657m) 50.2 km (687 meters climbed)

27 July 2007 Chavinillo - Huanuco (1894m) 73.5 km (545 meters climbed)

28 – 29 July 2007 Huanuco

30 July 2007 Huanuco - Huariaca (2938m) 69.9 km (1130 meters climbed)

31 July 2007 Huariaca - Cerro de Pasco (4333m) 52.2 km (1401 meters climbed)

1 August 2007 Cerro de Pasco - Junin (4125m) 77.2 km (347 meters climbed)

2 August 2007 Junin - La Oroya - Jauja (3250m) 139.1 km (309 meters climbed)

3 August 2007 Jauja - Huancayo (3244m) 49 km (110 meters climbed)

4 August 2007 Huancayo - Izcuchaca - Mariscal Caceres (3031m) 76.8 km (789 meters climbed) + 20 km wrong way to Pucara (100 meters climbed)

5 August 2007 Mariscal Caceres - La Esmeralda (aka Anco) (2450m) 75.8 km (686 meters climbed)

6 August 2007 Anco - Huanta (2682m) 67.2 km (995 meters climbed)

7 August 2007 Huanta - Ayacucho (2750m) 47.8 km (682 meters climbed)

8 - 10 August 2007 Ayacucho

11 August 2007 Ayacucho - Chontaca (3436m) 50.2 km (1077 meters climbed)

12 August 2007 Chontaca - Chumbes (2832m) 64.3 km (891 meters climbed)

13 August 2007 Chumbes - Uripa (3175m) 59.4 km (1286 meters climbed)

14 August 2007 Uripa - Andahuaylas (2980m) 80.0 km (1076 meters climbed)

15 August 2007 Andahuaylas (2980m)

16 August 2007 Andahuaylas – Kishuara (3794m) 60.4 km (1287 meters climbed)

17 August 2007 Kishuara – Abancay (2378m) 83.6 km (898 meters climbed)

18 August 2007 Abancay – Curahuasi (2712m) 70.8 km (1568 meters climbed)

19 August 2007 Curahuasi – Limatambo (2634m) 46.1 km (840 meters climbed)

20 August 2007 Limatambo – Cusco (3326m) 79.8 km (1446 meters climbed)

21 - 25 August 2007 Cusco (3326m)

26 August 2007 Cusco - Sicuani (3598m) 141.2 km (1010 meters climbed)

27 August 2007 Sicuani - Pucara (3896m) 142.6 km (850 meters climbed)

28 August 2007 Pucara - Puno (3830m) 108.3 km (290 meters climbed)

29 - 31 August 2007 Puno (3830m)

1 September 2007 Puno - Pomata (3960m) 107.8 km (445 meters climbed)

2 September 2007 Pomata - Kasani (border Bolivia) 28.8 km

 

Total Peru: 2,516.1 km

 

Total Central America: 3,574.9 km

Total South America: 2,516.1 km

Overall total: 6,091.0 km

 

Details of cycled route

 

12 July 2007 Trujillo (20m) - Chao (20m) 67.4 km (449 meters climbed)

On the Panamericana, safety lane not good enough to cycle on in most places, but not a lot of traffic. Up and down all the time, with some long climbs (5 kms). Lots of headwind in the afternoon. Accom at Viru (at 42 km + in center at 48 km) and Chao.

 

13 July 2007 Chao - Chuquicara (612m) 74.2 km (806 meters climbed)

First 15 kms same as yesterday, but even lesser traffic in the morning. Then private road (at Km 482 on Panam) = dirt road with some stones, but good enough, mostly along Rio Santa but up and down all the time. After 22 kms village Tanguche with small shop, which is not situated on main road, but downhill on a bad sideroad. After 50 kms, end of private road and bridge over Rio Santa. Then 8 easy kms on paved road to Chuquicara, where there are very basic rooms at gas station, small restaurants and shops. No other accom nor shops on this stretch, except Tanguche.

 

14 July 2007 Chuquicara - Yuramarca (1494m) 56.6 km (945 meters climbed)

Really bad dirt road. Resto at 11 km, at 14 km (small village Shacsa) and at 18 km (small village Mirador), then nothing till some street stalls at 41.8 km. You cross the river a couple of times and you go through some tunnels. Last 5 kms to Yuramarca, you climb 280 meters. Resto, shops and accom in Yuramarca (hospedaje up flight of stairs is better than 'hotel' on main road, but still very basic and not too clean). If you can get there, Huallanca, 13 kms further, is a lot nicer and bigger village and has better accom.

 

15 July 2007 Yuramarca - Caraz (2270m) 52.7 km (1096 meters climbed)

Bad dirt road. First 13 kms slightly up and down till village Huallanca, where there are restaurants, shops and accom. Then steep climb of 2.5 kms to Cañon del Pato. Then about 9.5 kms and 35 tunnels slightly climbing through Cañon. Then, after 25 kms from starting point, paved road slightly climbing to Caraz, except for bad part a couple of kms before Caraz, which is a 2 kms steep, unpaved climb. There is nothing at all between Huallanca and Caraz, so take enough supplies, the road is bad, so it might take longer than you think. Caraz is a small town with all facilities.

 

16 July 2007 Caraz

It is a lot nicer to stay here than in Huaraz, which is a busy and dirty town.

 

17 July 2007 Caraz - Huaraz (3091m) 70.0 km + 6.2 km in Huaraz (1104 meters climbed)

Paved road, slightly climbing all the way. Accom in Yungay (13 km), Carhuaz (35 km) and Monterrey (just before Huaraz). Lots of villages on this road.

 

18 - 19 July 2007 Huaraz

 

20 July 2007 Huaraz - Catac (3600m) 37.9 km (566 meters climbed)

Paved road, slightly climbing all the way. Lots of villages. Accom in Recuay (better) + Catac.

 

21 July 2007 Catac - Conococha (4113m) 50 km + 14.5 km up the Pasto Ruri and back (850 meters climbed)

Paved road, slightly climbing all the way, at the end 2 bigger climbs. Restaurant at village Pachacoto (at crossroads at 7 kms) seems to be closed forever. No shops nor accom except in Conococha, 3 basic hospedajes, best one is the green house (3rd house on the right).

 

22 July 2007 Conococha - Pachapaqui (4007m) 40.1 km (600 meters climbed)

Paved road. First 2 kms down to 3950m, then 14 kms slightly climbing till pass at 4295m, then 16 kms down till 3675m, then 9 kms slightly climbing till 4007m. No shops nor accom. Shops and one basic hospedaje in Pachapaqui.

 

23 July 2007 Pachapaqui - Huallanca (3536m) 49.9 km (689 meters climbed)

Paved road. Gradual climbing during 22 kms to pass Abra Yanashallah at 4700m, then 39 kms descent to Huallanca (accom, bank, shops, restaurants). No shops on the way, except maybe in Mina Huansala (at 35 kms), but village is a lot lower than the road.

 

24 July 2007 Huallanca

 

25 July 2007 Huallanca - Pachas (3620m) 39 km (383 meters climbed)

All dirt road. Gradual descent on good dirt road till La Union (21 kms, accom, ATM, shops, restaurants), then gradual descent on bad dirt road for 10 kms, then climb on very bad dirt road for 7 kms to Pachas (accom, shops, restaurants)

 

26 July 2007 Pachas - Chavinillo (3657m) 50.2 km (687 meters climbed)

All dirt road. Descent on bad dirt road to Tingo Chico (at km 12.5, accom, shops, rest), then up and down till nice village Acobamba (at km 21.5, hostal, but we did not see any shop nor rest), then up and down on bad road, then from km 33 only up till about 8 kms before Chavinillo, where there is a long descent, from 3665m to 3550m, on better road, followed by a long ascent to 3657m on better road. Chavinillo is rather big, with several hostals (best one is Gran Hotel Cruz), shops and rest.

 

27 July 2007 Chavinillo - Huanuco (1894m) 73.5 km (545 meters climbed)

All dirt road. Rather good dirt road during 15 kms ascent to pass at 4150m, then 30 kms descent on good dirt road, then very, very bad and rocky dirt road till Huanuco. Last 10 kms are not descent anymore, but go up and down, with some short steep ups, and with headwind in the afternoons. Lots of villages underway, some bigger villages have shops. Accom at Huancapallac (at km 52), and of course at Huanuco, which is a big city with everything.

 

28 - 29 July 2007 Huanuco

 

30 July 2007 Huanuco - Huariaca (2938m) 69.9 km (1130 meters climbed)

All paved. Up and down till Ambo at km 25, but more up than down. Then up nearly all the time. Accom at km 18.5 (but down in the village), at km 23 and at km 25 Ambo. After Ambo, there is very little, except some road restaurants, till bigger town San Rafael at km 54, which has accom, but Huariaca is much the nice placer to stay.

 

31 July 2007 Huariaca - Cerro de Pasco (4333m) 52.2 km (1401 meters climbed)

All paved. At km 5 Baranchaca has accom, but no shops. At km 10 Malauchaca shop. At km 12.5 Ticlacayan shops. At km 17.8 Atacocha mining complex has a shop and an ATM in the last building (right hand side). At km 27.5 Pariamarca basic hospedaje and shop. Then long climb all the way to Cerro, without any village. From turnoff to center of city is 6.5 kms, of which 2.5 up and rest down.

 

1 August 2007 Cerro de Pasco - Junin (4125m) 77.2 km (347 meters climbed)

All paved. Headwind. First climb 4 km (75m) out of Cerro, then 2.5 km down (50m) back to the carretera to La Oroya (on the same road you came in. There is another road out of Cerro, but this one is not paved and climbs as much, but is probably shorter). Then climb during 12 kms, then long downs and very slightly ups till Junin. Villages at km 46 Carhuaymayo (has 3 hospedajes of which Savoy at exit of village looks best) and at km 56.5 Huayre (calm and picturesque, shops, but no accom).

 

2 August 2007 Junin - La Oroya - Jauja (3250m) 139.1 km (309 meters climbed)

All paved. First climb out of Junin for 12 kms up to 4200m, then up and down for another 6 kms, then mostly downhill to La Oroya at 56 km (big city, accom). Then along the river Mantaro more down than up to Jauja (small touristic town, accom). Headwind from La Oroya on. Till La Oroya there is nothing, afterwards some road restaurants about every 20 kms. Bigger village San Francisco at km 96 and a few smaller villages after that.

 

3 August 2007 Jauja - Huancayo (3244m) 49 km (110 meters climbed)

All paved. There are 2 roads, one on each side of the river. We took the left side of the river, but no safety lane and narrow road. Headwind. Up and down, but more up than down. After 29 kms road gets broader and there are 4 lanes. There are nice villages all the way. Accom in La Concepcion at km 25. Some steep climbs riding into Huancayo.

 

4 August 2007 Huancayo - Izcuchaca - Mariscal Caceres (3031m) 76.8 km (789 meters climbed)

Paved till Izcuchaca (km 63). Headwind. First about 10 kms through suburbs. Then climb till pass of 3988m at km 31. Then descent to Izcuchaca (accom) during 32 kms. Then unpaved but not too bad road during 14 kms, mostly downhill, but some climbs till M. Caceres (very basic accom).

From here on you'll encounter annoying bloodsucking little flies, called zancudos. They leave bites that itch like mosquito bites. Normal insect repellent will keep them away, but only for a very short time. Better buy the local brand "Zzzcudo" which is sold in botica (= pharmacist) and also in some grocery stores in the small villages. This helps for at least 4 hours. These flies are there only during daylight. The hotter it is, the more active they are. As soon as the sun disappears, they disappear too.

 

5 August 2007 Mariscal Caceres - La Esmeralda (aka Anco) (2450m) 75.8 km (686 meters climbed)

All dirt road. Hot (33 degrees Celsius) and lots of zancudos (see above). Lots of ups and downs. Lots of villages till bigger village Quichuas at km 27 (accom). Then no villages, only some houses, but no shops, till Anco. At km 56.5 starts steep climb for 2 kms (180m), then a climb of 30m in 500m, then down, then a climb of 12m in 200m, then down a bit, then a climb of 15m in 300m, then up and down, but more down than up till Anco, where the best hostal is Yance, down at the park (plaza), but before descending to the park, talk to the owner of the restaurant El Camionero on the main road. He also owns the hostal, but at the hostal there is nobody to attend, so, you’ll find yourself before a closed door.

 

6 August 2007 Anco - Huanta (2682m) 67.2 km (995 meters climbed)

All dirt road. Hot (40 degrees Celsius) and lots of zancudos (see above). Steep climb out of Anco. Then lots of short steep climbs and 2 long ones till Mayocc at km 35 (accom). Steep climb out of Mayocc, and then some short steep climbs. Road gets worse after Mayocc till bridge with small shop (refrigerated drinks) at km 45.5 (2242m). After bridge better road and gradual climbing all the way to Huanta. In Huanta steep paved climb of 2 kms to center of city.

 

7 August 2007 Huanta - Ayacucho (2750m) 47.8 km (682 meters climbed)

All paved. No safety lane, but not a lot of traffic. Paving is wobbly and sometimes very rough, except from km 17.5 till km 30 where it is very smooth. First climb 260m during 8 kms (first 2 kms are somewhat steep). Some short dirt stretches from km 6.5 till km 8. Then go up and down. Then long descent from km 20 to km 30. Then climb about 600m gradually during 17 kms. Lots of villages underway.

 

8 – 10 August 2007 Ayacucho (2750m)

 

11 August 2007 Ayacucho – Chontaca (3436m) 50.2 km (1077 meters climbed)

All unpaved. Lots of ups and downs, sometimes steep, sometimes really bad road, but a lot more up than down. Villages with shops on the road itself at km 13 Niño Jesus de Ñeque, km 20 Condoray (2930m), km 25.5 Alanya (3030m), km 26.5 Tambillo (3085m), km 28.5 Ccehcca (3230m), km 31.5 Penao (3320m), km 45 Seccelambras (3450m), km 49.7 Chontaca (3436m), which is the biggest village and where there is also a restaurant and where we could sleep in the Centro de Salud which has 4 beds. Sr Chime is building rooms upstairs of his shop (in the turn, on the left hand side) which should soon be finished.

There is another road which goes a lot higher, over the El Tocto Pass (at about 4300 meters), but then you encounter no village till Ocros (115 kms from Ayacucho).

 

12 August 2007 Chontaca – Chumbes (2832m) 64.3 km (891 meters climbed)

All unpaved and bad. From km 4.7 till 8.7 descent from 3430m to 3240m over really bad road. Then from km 8.7 till 11.7 ascent to 3393m over bad road. Then from km 15 to 31.5 ascent from 3330m to 3988m over sometimes bad road. Then from km 31.5 to 52.5 Ocros descent over really, really bad road, then further descent to km 64.3 Chumbes over bad road. Villages at km 11.2 Paccpayocc (no shop, just a couple of houses) (3375m), km 14.1 Matara with shop (3330m), km 52.2 Ocros with shop, restaurant and accom (3190m), km 64.3 Chumbes with shop, restaurant and basic accom (2832m).

 

13 August 2007 Chumbes – Uripa (3175m) 59.4 km (1286 meters climbed)

All unpaved. Descent on bad road to km 19.3 Puentepampas (1960m), then up and down till km 34, then steady climb (first kms very steep) till km 59.4 Uripa on good road till last 5 kms which are bad again. Villages with shops at km 13.5 Pajonal (2210m), km 16 Ninabamba (2105m), km 19.3 Puentepampas (small basic shop, only water and Inca Kola) (1960m), km 27 Ahuayro at 2026m (very nice village with 5 big shops, restaurants, very basic hospedaje and puesto de salud. There is a nice big shop riding into the village, left hand side, seems to be a good place to ask to sleep, big wall around it and large clean house), km 34 Callebamba (2070m), km 50 Chincheros at 2780m (rather big place, with 2 hotels, restaurants, shops and hospital) and km 59.4 Uripa which is as big as, or maybe bigger than Chincheros, but no hospital.

 

14 August 2007 Uripa – Andahuaylas (2980m) 80 km (1076 meters climbed)

All unpaved, except last 5 kms paved. Climb on very bad rocky road in 11.4 kms to 3650m. Then 2 roads. We took right (= the high road). Climb in 19 km to a pass of 4145m on rather good road. Then descend on somewhat bad road during 45 kms to Talavere, which is a big town. From km 51 to 58 there are villages and houses all the time, at about km 53 are some big shops. You have to pedal in the descent at about km 58 and 61. Then from km 75 Talavere (2830m) 5 kms slightly uphill on paved road to Andahuaylas (2898m) which is a really big town.

 

15 August 2007 Andahuaylas (2980m)

 

16 August 2007 Andahuaylas – Kishuara (3794m) 60.4 km (1287 meters climbed)

All unpaved, except for first 2.7 kms to village San Jeronimo (60m climb). Climb to km 9.6 (3375m) where there are crossroads. Take right (= straight ahead) for the high road. Then climb further till km 18.3 (3660m), where you descent to 3635m at km 21.9. Then climb till the pass at km 38.9 (4185m). Then downhill, some pedaling (during 1.5 kms) after the bridge at km 49, and some pedaling after the bridge at km 52. Then downhill till km 55. Then uphill till km 57.6 (70m climb). Then crossroads for Kishuara (take left) and downhill with short climb till hostal San José at entrance road to village Kishuara. No villages on this road.

 

17 August 2007 Kishuara – Abancay (2378m) 83.6 km (898 meters climbed)

Unpaved, except last 18 kms paved. Climb out of Kishuara during 3 kms (135m, to 3929m) where you join the main road again (first 2 kms steep). At km 6.4 is a restaurant La Cabañita (no village, no houses, only this restaurant) which might be an alternative place to sleep. At km 7.8 (3980m) you are at the top of the pass. Descent starts out very gradual, you have to pedal and climb some from km 10.5 to km 13. Then from km 16.1 to km 16.8 climb 15m, then pedaling from km 18 to 19.5. At km 21.8 you are at 3706m. At km 24.6 (3625m) climb till km 24.9 (15m, to 3640m). From km 24.9 till 25.9 climb to 3665m. At km 26.6 there is a big empty building which looks like a good place to camp. At km 30 is a really small village. From km 38 to 39.5 pedalling again. At km 51.2 the other road joins our road. At km 54.5 village Alquibamba with shop. At km 62.8 to 63.3 climb 50m. At km 65.5 you join the paved road at Puente Sahuinto at 2034m. There should be another road which joins the paved road 5 kms earlier, at Puente Pachachaca, but we did not see it. Once over the bridge Sahuinto, left is direction Abancay. Gas station with very small restaurant at km 67.5. At km 69.5 starts the climb to Abancay (it starts at 2000m, where the dirt road coming from Puente Pachachaca joins the paved road). At km 74.6 there is a shop, and at km 74.7 (2270m) gas station “El Piloto” with restaurant and clean looking hospedaje. From 5 kms before the center of Abancay, there are houses and shops.

 

18 August 2007 Abancay – Curahuasi (2712m) 70.8 km (1568 meters climbed)

All paved. Climb steeply out of Abancay (60m in 0.5 km). Keep on climbing. At km 23.4 (3388m) village Caserio Waraccoña (small, only 5 houses, but with shop and empty building of Provias Nacionales, which could be a place to sleep). Reach the pass at km 35.2 (3903m). Then descend. At km 43.2 Inca ruins Sayhuite (3620m). At km 49 shop just before bridge. In Curahuasi, several hostals, but Hostal Santa Catalina is the best (very, very clean and modern), it is 250m off the Panam on the road to the center (go right at Restaurant Union on the Panam). Near Hostal Santa Catalina is a pizzeria.

 

19 August 2007 Curahuasi – Limatambo (2634m) 46.1 km (840 meters climbed)

All paved, except for km 3.5 to km 4.5 dirt. Descent, except km 11 Puente Quebrada Honda, where you climb 50m till km 12.3. At km 16 and km 19 you have to pedal some. At km 18 village with several shops. At km 19.9 Restaurant Hospedaje Quinta Recreo Cañaveral (address: Panam km 105, in village Carmen) which is very nice and clean, with swimming pool, and the homemade pasta is really succulent. Km 20.3 till km 22.3 climb 45m. Then down again and up, till real ascent starts at km 28.5. Really hot in the canyon. At km 37 restaurant in shack. Steep climb last 2 kms to get to Limatambo. In Limatambo 2 basic hospedajes on Panam (Villa Limatambo + El Tambo), 1 basic on the Plaza de Armas (Hosp. Plaza) and Hostal Rivero about 1 km further, 50m off the Panam. This last one is probably the best (big rooms on groundfloor, clean, shared bathroom). Several restaurants in Limatambo.

 

20 August 2007 Limatambo – Cusco (3326m) 79.8 km (1446 meters climbed)

All paved. First 9 kms steep climb (485m). Then normal climb till top of climb at km 26.2 (3630m). Then real descent till km 37. Then slightly downhill till km 44. Then flat or slightly up and down till climb starts at km 59.5 (at 3380m). At km 64.8 you are at 3455m, then down 10m to 3445m at km 65.5. Then more or less flat. Then climb again, but last 3 kms to top at km 71.5 (3622m) are steep. Then descent into Cusco.

At km 2 Inca ruins Tarahuasi. At km 3.6 (2822m) Restaurant Hospedaje Limatambo Country Club (looks very basic). At km 14 (3255m) village with shops. At km 33 (3400m) big village Ancahuasi with shops. At km 44 (3280m) village Compone with shop. At km 45.6 shop. At km 46.8 (3280m) village Cotabambas with shop. At km 46.9 gas station with shop. At km 50.3 couple of houses with shop. At km 53 (3293m) small town Anta (Izcuchaca) with shops and restaurants. At km 64.8 (3455m) are 2 modern gas stations with shop and restaurant. At km 65.5 (3445m) village Poroy with some basic outdoor restaurants.

 

21 - 25 August 2007 Cusco (3326m)